![]() ![]() ![]() In the case of the first two you’ll simply need to clean them up before resuming fire, but if it is the spring you’ll need to purchase a new one. ![]() The main causes for this type of malfunction are fouling of the bolt carrier group, fouling of the chamber, and a weak or broken extractor spring. If the case is broken or ruptured then it is likely stuck in the chamber and you’ll need to fish a cleaning rod down the barrel and nudge the cartridge out of the chamber. If the case isn’t broken, you’ll need to lock the bolt carrier group to the rear of the action and set the safety on, remove the magazine, and tap the stock on a solid fixture in order to shake the cartridge loose. The proper way to fix this will depend on whether a new round has been fed or not and whether the cartridge is actually stuck in the chamber. It occurs whenever a cartridge is left in the chamber, but sometime this will also lead to a new live round being fed and forced into the unextracted cartridge. This is possibly one of the most dangerous malfunctions and should be handled with the utmost care. If there is obvious damage then you’ll likely need to buy a replacement, but if there isn’t, then it may simply be do to fouling and require a thorough cleaning. Once you’ve determined that you have a firing pin malfunction though, you’ll need to examine the pin. If the indentation seems equal to that left in the fired round though, then you should safely dispose of the defective round and go back to your shooting. If the indentation is not as deep as the fired round or if there isn’t any indentation at all, then you have a weak and defective firing pin. To do this you’ll need to remove the unfired round and inspect the indentation left by the firing pin while comparing it to a previously fired round. In this case the only thing to do is to figure out which malfunction you’re suffering from. There are two main malfunctions that you’re likely to come across in this category: defective ammunition or a defective firing pin. This type of malfunction can be diagnosed whenever a live round is correctly fed and chambered and the trigger is pulled, but the round doesn’t fire. Essentially, the fix for this problem is simply to stay on top of cleaning and caring for your rifle. The gas firing system of the AR-15 is sensitive and collecting too much dirt or debris anywhere in the system (from the buffer tube to the bolt carrier group) can cause it to malfunction.Įven the build up of soot and other residue from the act of firing itself (called fouling) can result in a malfunction if you’re not diligent in cleaning your firearm. The final way in which your AR can suffer a feeding malfunction is due to a build up of dirt, grime, and other debris. Sounds easy enough, until you’ve got your fingers jammed as far as possible into the chamber and realize you’ll have to get some tools if you want to be done before the sun sets. All you need to do is pull back the bolt and lock it in place, pull the magazine out, and fish the faulty round out of the chamber. The steps to solving this malfunction are simple, but can often end up taking up a lot of time. Cartridges that separate on extraction are exactly as they sound, ejecting only a part of the cartridge and leaving the rest in the barrel causing all kinds of problems. Stubbed rounds are rounds that have been forced back into the cartridge, causing them to slow on their way through the barrel or cause a massive jam. There are two main ammunition feed malfunctions that commonly occur with the AR-15: stubbed rounds and cartridges that have separated on extraction. Unfortunately, there is no way to solve this malfunction other than to purchase a new drop-in spring, but usually those types are better quality than the original ones anyway so you can view it as a mandatory upgrade. If you’ve ruled out all of the magazine malfunctions, then you should check to see if your buffer spring is damaged or worn.
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